Travel this beautiful section of the Nantahala Gorge where history meets industry in the forested areas of western North Carolina. The Indian Lakes Scenic Byway will take drivers on a journey through an area of meaningful names just itching to tell a story. The Indian Lakes Scenic Byway will also take travelers by several other North Carolina byways including the Cherohala Skyway.
This drive is an easy route past three lakes tucked into the lush forested mountain of the Nantahala National Forest and Great Smoky Mountain National Park. This route lies mostly within Graham County, one of the most isolated, lease populated and most scenic counties in North Carolina.
Start the drive at the junction of US 129 and NC 143 in Robbinsville, heading north towards Lake Santeetlah and the Tennessee border. About 1.5 miles from the center of town, you will pass a turnoff on the left for western continuation of NC 143 and the Cheoah Ranger District Office of the Nantahala National Forest. Your may want to stop here to pick up a forest map and other information.
As you continue along the road you will get periodic views of Lake Santeetlah on the left. The lake has numerous sinuous arms that reach up the channels of its tributaries. The lake was created when the Cheoah River was dammed up. Its name comes from the Cherokee word meaning “blue waters”. The crosses an arm of the lake 3.1 miles north of the Ranger Station, near the Ted Jordan Bridge and Blue Waters Mountain Lodge. In another 1.6 miles lies the Cheoah Point Recreation Area on the left. A side road continues past the recreation area to a view of the dam. IN another 1.1 miles, Forest Road 416 turns left. It leads eventually to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, majestic virgin woodland that lies hidden in the verdant Unicoi Mountains across the lake.
About a mile past the turnoff to Joyce Kilmer Forest, you will pass a large flume and a swing bridge over the Cheoah River. The flume is part of an aqueduct and tunnel system that taps Lake Cheoah for hydroelectric power generation. From here the highway heads downstream through the scenic gorge of the Cheoah River. The route lies within the Nantahala National Forest and is little developed.
This area is known as Tapoco. Not as exotic as it seems, it’s an acronym for Tallassee Power Company which was purchased by the Aluminum Company of America (today’s Alcoa). Studies began on ways of damming the Little Tennessee River to produce hydroelectric power. The company needed electricity to smelts its aluminum. Although aluminum is very common in the earth’s crust, it takes vast amounts of electricity to separate and purify it. When World War I increased demand for the lightweight metal, workers were brought into this remote area; they began pouring concrete for Cheoah Dam in early 1917.
Two years later, the dam and hydroelectric plant were completed. At the time the 225 foot high dam was the highest of its type in the world and its power turbines were the world’s biggest. A dozen years later, the Tallassee Power Company built the dam that created Calderwood Lake downstream in Tennessee. Though the town of Tapoco once housed 2,000 workers, today only a handful of people live there.
The Cheoah River flows into the Little Tennessee River. The highway crosses a large bridge just below the towering Cheoah Dam. The tall structure is impressive. The hero in the movie The Fugitive jumped off this dam. On the other side of the bridge the road climbs toward the road climbs towards the dam along a narrow snaking path. It passes the top of the dam and follows narrow Lake Cheoah about 2 miles to the junction with NC 28. For those brave of heart, they can continue on US 129 and slay the Tail of the Dragon.
To continue on the Indian Lakes Byway, turn right onto NC 28 and drive upstream along the lake. The quiet highway winds between the water and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. After 2.8 miles, you will pass the park’s Twentymile Ranger Station on the left. There are several quiet hiking trails that start at the ranger station, leading up creeks or over ridges.
Past the ranger station, the drive continues along the lake. This area is very scenic; it is almost entirely national forest and national park land, so there is very little development. Look for a small hydroelectric plant by the lake in about 2 miles. Water is carried to this station via the aqueduct, earlier below Lake Santeetlah. In about 3.1 miles, watch for a turnoff on the left by a huge quarry. This side road leads to the base of Fontana Dam, the highest concrete dam east of the Mississippi River. The dam and powerhouse tower above the end of the road, holding back 11,685 acre Fontana Lake.
Fontana Dam was begun by the Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) in January 1942 as part of an elaborate system of dams, locks and power plants built largely in the Tennessee River watershed. The system of dams and lakes facilitated navigation along the Tennessee River and controlled flooding. Hydroelectric plants brought power into areas that never had it. In later years, the TVA’s power generation greatly increased with the addition of coal fired and nuclear power plants.
Return to NC 28 and continue the drive. Almost immediately, you will cross the river. Just beyond the bridge, go about 6 miles. Near the top of the dam, and slowly climb up and away from the lake, you will see occasional views of the water through the trees. The Nantahala National Forest Cable Cove Recreation Area is on the left in about 3.7 miles. In 3 miles, you hit the small sleepy village of Tuskeegee. From Tuskeegee, the highway climbs over mountains to the junction with NC 143.
Beyond the junction, you pass through the small village of Stecoah. The road then passes an arm of Fontana Lake. The Forest Service manages Tsali Recreational Area on the left about 8 miles after the NC 143 junction. Notable for its lake access and long horse trails along Lake Fontana. Mountain bikers flock to this area.
About 1.8 miles past Tsali Recreational Area, you arrive in the hamlet of Almond. Past this small town, you cross yet another arm of Lake Fontana. Fontana boasts approximately 240 miles of shoreline. This arm is where the Nantahala River adds to the reservoir. The drive ends at the junction with US 19/US 74. To return to Robbinsville, turn right and follow the Nantahala River upstream.